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Chef Walter Pisano, a 1999 Workshop alumnus, makes an aromatic pesto that includes neither basil nor garlic. He makes it with fresh spring herbs—parsley, chives, and mint—in place of the basil that doesn’t mature until summer. It’s lively and light, just the right complement to his feather-light gnocchi, but you could use this pesto on fresh pasta or fish as well. Chef Pisano’s gnocchi melt on the tongue when made with high-quality ricotta. At the winery, we use Bellwether Farms ricotta (see page 77), but Calabro also makes an excellent product. You may need to visit a specialty cheese shop to find fresh ricotta. Supermarket ricotta containing gums or stabilizers will not produce the most delicate gnocchi.

A light, bright, citrusy hors d’oeuvre for a warm summer night, this tartare requires impeccably fresh tuna. Keep the fish on ice as you prepare it and serve it immediately for the most vivid flavor. To preserve the tuna’s plum-red color, don’t add the salt or soy sauce until the last moment. You can present the tartare in lettuce cups, if you prefer, instead of on fried wontons or crackers.

Canadian chef Rob Feenie made this savory tart during the 2002 Workshop. Unlike quiche with its custard filling, the classic tarte flambée topping includes no egg—just fromage blanc thinned with crème fraîche, sweet sautéed onions, and smoky bacon. The name (“flaming tart”) derives from earlier times, when cooks would bake it near the embers of a wood-fired oven.

Serve these bacon-and-cheese-stuffed onions as a side dish for roasts, or as an unexpected main course for dinner, supplemented by a green salad. Don’t rush the cooking of the chopped onions; keep them on the heat until caramelized, for the best flavor.

For a meatless variation, replace the prosciutto with a half cup of grated parmesan and the scallions with a cup of chopped mixed fresh herbs, such as mint, parsley, and tarragon.

Making risotto is a simple matter so long as you keep a careful eye toward the end to prevent overcooking the rice, as the mixture will continue to thicken after it’s taken off the heat. Here, the cooking liquid is also used to rehydrate the porcini mushrooms.

Although traditionally made with rice (riso in Italian), risotto can also be made with pearl barley (and other grains, such as farro) to provide a slightly chewy dish with a nutty flavor.

This recipe makes one large lasagna, but you can easily make two smaller versions in eight-inch baking dishes. Enjoy one for dinner tonight, and freeze the other for later. Or add sausage to one (see variation below) and keep the other meat-free.

This homemade version of the Chinese standby is a great way to use up leftover rice. Or, to save time, cook the rice up to three days in advance, then let cool and refrigerate, covered tightly. Bring to room temperature before adding to stir-fry.

Dried beans are an inexpensive alternative to canned—once cooked, they also have a better texture and far less sodium. Here the beans are simmered with beets, which infuses them with color and flavor.

To simplify Mexican chiles rellenos—fried, stuffed mild chile peppers—these poblano peppers are filled with a black-bean mixture (without first being roasted and peeled) and then baked in a spicy tomato sauce.

Although you could certainly substitute one-quarter cup bottled teriyaki sauce for the homemade version in this recipe, the resulting dish won’t taste nearly as fresh and vibrant.

To save time, you can make this recipe with store-bought pie dough; look for refrigerated dough (not frozen piecrusts) made with butter rather than margarine or partially hydrogenated oils.

Using store-bought puff pastry allows you to make these tarts on a busy weeknight. Round out the vegetarian meal with a salad of mixed greens or any of the winter vegetable sides on page 279.

Made famous in the port city of Veracruz, Mexico, this spicy dish combines jalapeños, olives, tomatoes, and oregano in a pan sauce that surrounds the firm-fleshed snapper as it cooks. Serve with lime wedges and white rice or a simple green salad.

Steamed fish is a healthful and quick-cooking dinner option. Adding a few aromatics to the steaming liquid enhances the taste of the fish without using any butter or oil. Haddock, halibut, or other firm-fleshed white fish can be used in place of the cod.