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This delicate torta makes a lovely luncheon dish. Served with our Warm Bean, Snap Pea, and Tomato Salad (page 173), it is perfect for a springtime supper. To drain the ricotta cheese, place it in a fine sieve lined with cheesecloth, and set the sieve over a deep bowl; let stand at least 1 hour at room temperature.

Drain the noodles well before coating with sauce.

Look for precooked polenta logs in the refrigerated section of your grocery store. If using fresh plum tomatoes, peel them by scoring an X in the bottom with a paring knife and plunging them into boiling water for several seconds; transfer to an ice-water bath, and let cool. Slip off and discard the peels and seeds.

If you can’t find this squash, use butternut.

Grocery stores often carry several kinds of tofu, so be sure to buy the firm variety for this dish. Pressing the tofu removes excess water and allows it to soak up the peppery marinade.

You can substitute Chinese broccoli with broccolini or dark, leafy greens such as kale, turnip, or mustard greens. Before marinating the tofu, press it as described in step 1 to remove excess moisture.

This recipe can be doubled easily. Use a larger steamer, about ten inches in diameter, to cook all four portions at once in the same basket.

The baby artichokes are cooked in advance, so they only need to be grilled for a short time.

If you cannot find fenugreek seed, this curry is equally satisfying when ground fenugreek is substituted; add with the other ground spices.