Spinach

(BEEF AND SAUSAGE ROLL WITH PROSCIUTTO, PROVOLONE, SPINACH AND EGGS) At one time very little meat was eaten in this region. When it was, humbler cuts were transformed by long cooking into delicious stews or combined with other ingredients to make meatballs or a meat roll such as this one. It is good hot, at room temperature or even cold. Leftovers are great in sandwiches. Serve with the Mixed Salad and some bread.

Serve this quickly prepared dish with a tossed green salad and chilled melon for a summer brunch or light supper.

Lenticchie Brasate
This recipe is an accompaniment for Chicken Breast Valdostana with Braised Lentils.

Kalmi Shaak Following Bengali tradition, Chitrita Banerji's mother presented this vegetable dish as a first course — delicate yet spicy, it gets the appetite going. But you could serve it as a side dish with the mung beans and the eggplant fritters. The original recipe called for mustard oil, but because it's so hard to find an FDA-approved brand — many bottles are labeled "for massage only," though Indians find that they're fine to cook with — we have substituted vegetable oil.

Horenso No Goma Miso Ae Some miso varieties are quite salty, but the Saikyo shiro miso called for in this sauce has a sweet, caramel-like taste.

"I’m a pasta fiend, and I love to create sauces, especially when they include my favorite vegetable, red bell pepper," writes Dawn Kleinman of Denver, Colorado. "This recipe won a local contest and continues to receive compliments from everyone who tries it."

Nudies? In Florentine dialect they’re called gnudi, nudies, poking fun at a dish from the Casentino, a neighboring area that makes their greens and ricotta gnocchi with the same filling Florentines use for ravioli. Nudies because they’re not wearing pasta. Pronounced YNOO-dees. Spinach is used in Florence but wild greens are common in the mountainous Casentino. And ravioli are stuffed with wild greens in many regional recipes. Use wild greens if you can get them, otherwise use chard or spinach, whichever is fresh and tender. Traditionalists may want to search for sheep’s milk ricotta, which yields richer results, but everyone else can get by with whole cow’s milk ricotta. Drain watery ricotta in a metal sieve for 30 minutes if necessary. Cooks in search of a labor-intensive experience can form nudies by hand, one at a time, or use the 2-spoon French quenelle method. I prefer to pipe the mixture from a plastic bag onto a floured countertop, sprinkle the blobs with flour, and lightly roll to form walnut-sized, roughly shaped balls. Serve the nudies with melted butter or tomato or meat sauce, sprinkled with Parmigiano, and baked in the oven to melt the cheese.

Stitt likes to use rock salt — the kind used for old-fashioned ice cream churners — as a bed for these oysters because it keeps the shells from tipping and sliding around in the pan and on the plates. Rock salt is sold at many supermarkets, but kosher salt is a good substitute. At the restaurant, Stitt makes this recipe with local Apalachicola oysters, though he also likes the flavor of East Coast varieties such as Blue Point, Pemaquid, and Malpeque, so feel free to use your favorite.

A soothing soup for any time of year.

Some thickly sliced tomatoes and hot corn bread would be good with this country-style dish. A great choice for dessert is rustic stewed rhubarb with dollops of sour cream.

Basmati-rice pilaf studded with peas and carrots is ideal on the side with this mild curried soup. Have chutney, yogurt and warm pita bread as additional accompaniments. Slice fresh bananas atop papaya or mango sorbet for a refreshing dessert.

Here's an easy but sophisticated side dish that makes a great accompaniment to prime rib, pork chops or veal.

From the Pepper Mill in Clearwater, Florida.

Serve with steamed new potatoes.