Shellfish

Southerners expect and almost demand a savory spread at any even involving cocktails (which mans virtually all social get-togethers), so Mother certainly would never disappoint her guests at a formal cocktail supper, even when one or two other appetizers are served. (We won't even get into how Rebels also relish sweet appetizers with their drinks.) She uses this basic formula also to make crabmeat spinach, and ham spreads, so feel free to experiment.

Look for Old Bay seasoning in the spice section of the supermarket.

The tortilla strips need to dry overnight, so begin making this one day ahead.

The somen noodles called for in this recipe are a very thin Japanese wheat noodle. They are available in the Asian section of many supermarkets, at Southeast Asian markets and at specialty foods stores.

A refreshing starter from Arrows in Ogunquit, Maine.

Pernod, the beloved French anise-flavored aperitif, adds an interesting twist to the sauce. Offer Champagne with the starters.

Substituting cooked chicken for the lobster also yields excellent results.

You can add some diced red bell pepper to give this full-flavored dish a splash of color.

Tarragon brings its distinctive flavor to this salad. Serve it alongside the strata.

Chef Shelton uses a 4- by 2-inch round cake ring to mold the salad on the plate.

This recipe can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

Sweet, salty, and spicy, nuoc cham is the indispensable sauce of Vietnam's cuisine. It's a favorite dipping sauce for spring rolls and for fresh rice-paper rolls such as these.

When sweet, succulent jumbo crabmeat comes into season, this is an incredibly simple, light, and refreshing first course that requires no cooking. It can also be used as a main course for a summer luncheon.

Orzo pilaf and stewed tomatoes simmered with sliced fennel bulb are nice side dishes. Classic chocolate mousse is the perfect finish.