Root Vegetable

Most chestnut soups are fairly substantial. We've made our version lighter and brothier to serve as a first course for a big meal. Chopped chestnuts mixed with tangy croutons add texture and extra layers of complexity.

This light starter can be prepared ahead of time and is a smart alternative to fussy holiday hors d'oeuvres. It has an unbelievably fresh flavor, even when made with frozen soybeans.

Frittata di Ricotta The best ricotta is a farmer's jewel—thick, tangy, and, contrary to health regulations, unpasteurized. But we eat it anyway, at room temperature with a spoon, like kids skimming cream off the top of milk. Around Garfagnana, the mountain town where my mom grew up, this frittata is a staple, but is never served as an individual dish; the frittatas they made were huge and were sliced into single servings. You can't beat it for a buffet. It's also great with tomato sauce on top. Make sure to use the highest quality ricotta you can find.

Judi Kerr of Mendham, New Jersey, writes: "I'm a professional chocolate taster. I know it sounds like a dream job, but I get so much chocolate at work that I tend to avoid sweets when I'm at home. At the end of most days, I actually look forward to cooking dinner and making something hearty, like my chicken and white bean chili."

Grillades The grillades served with Baked Cheese Grits make for perfect comfort food — breakfast, lunch, or dinner.

Every visitor to Paumanok Vineyards enjoys a warm welcome from owners Ursula and Charles Massoud. She learned viticulture in her parents' vineyards in Germany; he taught himself to make wine when his job with IBM took the family to the Middle East. Ursula, who is known for her outstanding comfort food, pairs Paumanok's semi-dry Riesling with an onion tart she makes at harvest time. "It's traditional in my hometown to serve it when the Riesling juice is still fermenting. The sweetness of the onions matches the sweetness of the new wine."

This dish, typical of West Africa, is traditionally accompanied by foo-foo (a porridgelike side dish made from corn, sweet potato, plantain, or cassava meal). We strongly recommend serving the stew with rice to sop up the delicious sauce.

Green wheat was originally the Middle East's answer to a dwindling winter wheat supply; immature wheat was set ablaze to roast it and ready it for eating.

Use the season's first wild mushrooms in this satisfying vegetarian pasta.

Traditionally, this Mediterranean fish soup is spooned over slices of toasted bread that have been rubbed with garlic. In this version, it is served with fresh bread (see the Lemon and Rosemary Fougasse recipe) and aioli — for stirring into the soup or spreading on the bread.

What to drink: Try these with a lightly chilled Oregon Pinot Gris.

Farro is often said to be the Italian word for "spelt," but it is actually a different strain of wheat.

This recipe is an adaptation of the wonderful smash of vegetable served on the sliced-pork sandwiches at Philadelphia's Tony Lukes. Liberated from the bread, the dish has a slight bitterness that makes a great foil for the richness of Broiled Duck Breasts with Orange Chipotle Sauce .