Ricotta

This easy-to-make lasagne evolved from a pasta dish that one of us enjoyed on a trip to Portofino, Italy, some 30 years ago. Our version is even quicker, using won ton skins, which cook in a flash. Active time: 30 min Start to finish: 45 min

(Sformati di Asparagi e Parmigiano) Sformato, which is a cross between a savory custard and a soufflé, can be made from a number of different vegetables. Asparagus is ideal and a Tuscan favorite — particularly in April and May when it is at its best. Serve these puddings as a first course or as a side dish; or accompany them with a salad for brunch or a light supper.

The myzithra cheese often used to stuff zucchini blossoms in Greece comes in two forms: soft (like fresh ricotta) and dried salted (similar to ricotta salata). We wanted to combine the soft and the salted in this recipe, but because the soft variety turned out to be especially difficult to find, we substituted fresh ricotta with very good results. We've also given ricotta salata as an alternative for the salted myzithra.

Active time: 1 3/4 hr Start to finish: 2 3/4 hr (includes making pastry shell)

Although we prefer the taste and texture of sheep's-milk ricotta, this recipe can be made using (whole-milk) cow's-milk ricotta, which should first be drained overnight in a cheesecloth-lined sieve set over a bowl. The grapevine leaves make for a beautiful presentation, but, because they haven't been softened in water, they should not be eaten.

Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

Although we give directions on how to stack the vegetables in these napoleons, feel free to arrange the vegetables and cheeses any way you wish.

An inviting first course would be grilled or roasted vegetables tossed with olive oil and arranged on a platter with olives and spicy peppers. Buy some tiramisu for dessert.

Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

Good as the centerpiece of a meatless meal.

There is no oil in this most original salad.

Pastiera Napoletana If you can't find hulled whole-wheat kernels (sometimes sold as "pastry wheat"), substitute barley, skip the soaking, and cook as described below, but for only about 30 minutes. Whole wheat kernels — grano in Italian — are used for this traditional Neapolitan dessert that became a mainstay in Italian-American restaurants and bakeries. In Italy, cooked whole-wheat kernels can be found in cans; if you spot some, it will make this recipe a little simpler.

Mafalde, similar to dried lasagne noodles but not nearly as wide, work well in this dish, as do campanelle, the bellflower-shaped pasta shells. Active time: 20 min Start to finish: 35 min

No-boil noodles cut down on the prep time.