Pork Shoulder

Serve this hearty stew over noodles. Market Tip: It's best to buy pork shoulder from the Boston butt: This less-tender but well-marbled cut produces succulent results when braised.

This recipe works best with ordinary chili powder, which typically includes not only ground dried chiles but other spices as well. Pure chile powder will be too strong.

Carne Adovada At Maria's New Mexican Kitchen, in Santa Fe, New Mexico, this stew is used to fill enchiladas and burritos, but it also makes a very satisfying meal served alone or over rice.

The instructions given here are for a standard 22-inch Weber kettle barbecue. Grilling times and vent adjustments will vary with different types of barbecues.

To begin, offer a bowl of brine-cured green and black olives, another of marinated artichoke hearts, and some pâté and toast. The cassoulet needs only red wine and a loaf of good French bread as accompaniments. A pear or apple tart would add an appropriate French country flourish.

Hoisin sauce — a combination of soybeans, garlic, chiles, and spices — lends a sweet-spicy flavor to this pork roast. Look for it at Asian markets and well-stocked supermarkets. What to drink: Uncork an Australian Merlot or a New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc.

There are many different kinds of pork dumplings, and siu mai are one of the most popular, typically served in dim sum restaurants. When homemade, the dumplings are unsurpassed, if they are made with an equal amount of fresh water chestnuts to ground pork, Chinese mushrooms, cilantro, and scallions. Siu mai are distinctly different from other dumplings, because they are made with round won ton skins, not the typical square-shaped skins. Each brand has a different thickness of dough, but the thinner the better; the dumplings will be more delicate. If round won ton skins are not available, I cut square wrappers into 3-inch-wide circles. This recipe makes about 3 1/2 dozen siu mai. Steam as many as you need, or cover in plastic wrap, refrigerate, and steam within two to three hours.

In this recipe, a "dry rub" of brown sugar, pepper, paprika and salt flavors the meat before it is cooked, and a vinegary "mop" is brushed onto the pork to add more taste as it is smoked. Once cooked, the meat is "pulled," that is, shredded into slivers that are just the right size for piling onto a bun. The sandwich —drizzled with a bit of the vinegary sauce, which cuts the richness of the meat — is the ultimate in Carolina barbecue. Cook this in a smoker or a barbecue that has been converted to a smoker.

A hearty sweet and savory stew that's a perfect seasonal meal when teamed up with crusty bread and a green salad.

The flavorful broth that results from cooking the pork is known in Chinese cuisine as a master sauce — save any that's left over in the freezer and use it for braising other meats, such as duck or chicken. Allowing the pork to cool overnight in the broth ensures its succulence — and because it's made ahead, this dish is ideal for entertaining. Active time: 40 min Start to finish: 14 1/2 hr (includes chilling)

The actual family Christmas dinner in Great Expectations featured a leg of pork that was pickled, or corned, over a long period. This is our contemporary spice-rubbed version, which takes only about 24 hours. Serve the pork hot with mashed potatoes or cold in sandwiches.

Great for breakfast with eggs and grits.

Pork shoulder bacon may not get quite as crisp as belly bacon, but it has a great taste and a meaty texture. Even if you have a thermometer for your grill, you'll still need an instant-read — the grill thermometer won't register low enough to monitor the cold-smoking.

These superb tacos are from chef Alex Castro at the Old Mexico Grill in Santa Fe.

While our directions call for lighting the grill with a charcoal chimney, feel free to use whatever method you prefer.