Pork Loin

Frying tenderloins is like frying chicken: All recipes are fundamentally alike, but each has a twist, ranging from how the flour coating is seasoned to what the cooked meat ought to be drained on (paper towel? brown paper bags?).

Transforming cabbage into sauerkraut was one way the Germans preserved summer's crop for the hard winter ahead. A combination of rinsing the kraut of its salty brine and baking it with dried fruit mellows its bite. Smoked pork chops can be substituted; just omit the browning step. Offer some dark and light German beers to drink.

I didn't grow up eating pork, so I was pleased to find out how lean and flavorful it was when I made this roast loin of pork. I cooked it the way I cook lots of meats — roasted with carrots, potatoes, and fennel. It's important to let meat rest after it's cooked; you'll find that all meats become juicier and more tender after 15 to 20 minutes. The rub on this comes from my dear friend Anna Pump and her wonderful Loaves and Fishes Cookbook.

A little pork goes a long way in this Chinese dinner. Chicken breast can be used as a substitute for the pork. Chinese crepes are available frozen in most Asian markets, but easy-to-find tortillas work, too.

Fresh herbs and pancetta (Italian cured bacon) blanket the pork before it goes into the oven. Ask the butcher to tie the two loins to hold their shape. Begin marinating the meat one day before serving. What to drink: Open a few bottles of spicy Zinfandel or hearty Bordeaux to place on the buffet table.

John C. Ryan, Murphysboro, Ill.
"My wife used to make a better chili than I do, which is how this recipe got its name."

Lombo di Maiale Ripieno di Mortadella con Patate Arrosto This dish was inspired by a truffled mortadella we tasted in Rome. Good-quality mortadella can be found at butcher shops, at Italian markets, and even in the deli section of many supermarkets. Active time: 1 hr Start to finish: 1 1/4 hr

Broccoli tossed with buttered breadcrumbs makes a nice addition to the menu. Pour a Sauvignon Blanc and a French sparkling cider.

The Lime Mojo (a sauce of olive oil, chilies, garlic and spices) provides a spicy, tangy counterpoint to the pork. Serve the Spiced Butternut Squash and the Corn and Cheese Arepas (see recipes) as side dishes, and pour a Zinfandel or dark beer. Begin preparing the pork a day ahead.

Shake up some Margaritas (limeade for the kids) and slather grilled corn on the cob with cumin-seasoned butter. For dessert, top fudge brownies with coffee ice cream and Kahlúa.

I prefer pork loin from the rib end of the loin because it has a little more fat and a better flavor.

Any leftovers are great added to the Tuscan Rice Salad or for sandwiches.