Onion

Great with barbecued steak and cold beer.

(POULET AUX ARTICHAUTS)

(GIGOT D'AGNEAU AUX POMMES DE TERRE ET OIGNONS)

In making this omelet, the key is in the movement of the skillet, which must be positioned and repositioned over the heat to evenly color the side, top, and bottom of the omelet. A non-stick skillet is essential.

This is probably the simplest soup ever made from scratch: you just throw everything into the pot at once and walk away. The rice cooks in the pot along with the chicken long enough to give its starches over for extra body. Everything you dislike about brown rice — its starchiness and heaviness — works to advantage here. It turns soft and almost falls apart but still has texture. Don't substitute white rice, because it would get mushy. This soup may not be beautiful, but it sure is good.

Saffron Risotto An Italian classic, traditionally served with Osso Buco , this dish also makes a great accompaniment to the Whole Red Snapper Baked in a Salt Crust .

These custards are inspired by the Japanese egg custard chawan mushi, made with dashi broth (a stock of dried kelp and dried bonito flakes). We've used chicken broth for simplicity, but any broth or stock that you have on hand will work fine. Steaming the custards gives them a delicate texture, which is enhanced by the spare use of solid ingredients (the shrimp, scallion, and mushrooms).

Sangria lightened with sparkling water makes a festive spritzer to go with this dinner.

An adaptation of a recipe from Mexican Light Cooking by our friend Kathi Long, a chef and author in Santa Fe.

Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.