Lemon

Canned tuna sparked with lemon and capers creates a superb sauce that complements many pasta shapes — penne, shells, or linguine, to name only a few. I prefer solid-pack tuna in olive oil for the best flavor and texture. I sometimes add a small handful of unpitted black olives — Kalamata or Gaeta — and a large, ripe tomato, seeded and diced, for a delicious variation. Italians would never serve cheese with fish, but you have my permission to break the rules!

This recipe was inspired by the delicious lemon-oregano jam Mario Batali serves at Babbo, in New York City. Try a dollop of our version on poached or grilled fish or chicken, or use it as a dip for steamed asparagus or artichokes.

To save time, simply skip the topping.

The whipping cream that is added to these slightly sweet scones gives them a delicate texture, while the lemon peel and dried apricots add terrific flavor.

Serve with basmati or regular white rice.

This recipe can be prepared in 45 minutes or less. Put out a relish tray of sliced carrots, celery, gherkins and radishes, and serve sour cream mashed potatoes with the fish. Have lemon meringue tartlets afterward.

Majorca, Spain When this dessert is made on Majorca, rum-soaked raisins are baked on top. Here the filling is flavored with rum; then the cake is served with a strawberry compote.

What to drink: Offer a Pinot Grigio with these toasts.

This dish is delicious over couscous, which will absorb the flavorful broth.

A wonderfully homey cake that's equally good with afternoon tea, after a meal, or for breakfast with a cup of Italian roast coffee. Maple sugar is available at some supermarkets and at many natural foods stores.

Sheila Stein of Woodbury, New York, New York, writes: "We've eaten several times at La Viola of Syosset. Their chicken française is excellent. Could you get the recipe for me?"

Active time: 30 min Start to finish: 6 hr (includes chilling) Chillingsworth, in Brewster on Cape Cod, was one of several restaurants that caused a great deal of mail to flow into our You Asked for It department during the '60s and '70s. This homespun lemon roll is part of its legacy.

This recipe has a small yield, so it's not necessary to sterilize and process the jars if you plan on keeping the marmalade in the refrigerator and eating it within a few weeks. But if you want to make larger batches, process the jars. Active time: 40 minutes Start to finish: 1 day

This recipe works best with thin-skinned lemons because the slices, having less pith, will not be as bitter.

Mascarpone cheese, with its slightly tart flavor, gets a sweet boost from honey. If you can't find mascarpone, top this with honey-sweetened sour cream or crème fraîche.

Cooking doesn't get much easier than this, but it still took me a while to catch on. Being a northerner, I didn't realize that everyone south of Baltimore knows spiced shrimp like New Englanders know maple syrup. I tried spicing up my shrimp and crabs with a spice mix called "Shrimp and Crab Boil." I took the cue from the name and added the spices to boiling water to boil the shellfish. Not until I moved to Maryland crab country did I find that you douse the shellfish with spices and steam them over boiling water. Perhaps someone should market a spice mix called "Shrimp and Crab Steam" for us literalists. The shrimp are cooked with their shells on, so provide lots of napkins for spice-coated hands and beer or lemonade for spice-coated throats.

Lavender flowers are decidedly old-fashioned, as is this not-too-rich tea loaf. You can usually find the flowers in a health food store that sells herbs and spices in bulk. Wrap the cakes in cellophane, tie them with purple ribbon, and attach a yellow lemon-shaped tag to the package. Grinding the almonds in a food processor with a little of the sugar will keep them from turning into nut butter. Used blanched whole almonds or whole almonds with their natural brown skins, depending on the effect you want. Ground unblanched almonds give the cake a homey look, while blanched almonds are less noticeable, emphasizing the flecks of lavender.