Herbs & Spices

The words pea soup usually bring hearty dried split peas to mind, but this one—made with basil pesto and frozen green peas—has a fresh herbal sweetness.

Vietnamese-style rolls are a great addition to your summer repertoire: They require very little cooking and can be assembled at the kitchen table or out on the patio. Thanks to bean thread noodles and baked tofu, they make a substantial meal, but pickled vegetables and a trio of herbs keep each sauce-dipped bite light and cool.

As befitting a diner dessert, this ice cream is thick and rich and perfectly accents the apple tartlet. Cinnamon ice cream generally falls into three categories: infused via cinnamon sticks during the milk warming; ground cinnamon added during the milk warming; and ground cinnamon added at the very end. You can't get a real cinnamony flavor from the sticks alone, and adding ground cinnamon too early makes for a very strange texture. The third option lends a nice flavor and texture and leaves the custard pleasantly speckled.

This tartlet is complex, but well worth the effort. It sprang from the mind of our bakery's apple-obsessed chef, Eric Wolitzky (he is from the apple heartland of upstate New York), who was attempting to wring more flavor from the traditional apple pie. We’re still huge fans of the classic, but this version—with its perfect ratio of caramel to apple to buttery crust and crunchy topping—is now our must have apple dessert. At the bakery, we put the tartlets out at noon, and they are gone by 12:30 p.m., so we feel fairly confident that people share our new obsession.

In the past, the only fish many home cooks could get was nondescript frozen, breaded white fish that was pretty bland. Today, even landlocked cities have seafood counters swimming with delicious (and colorful) options. One of our favorites is beautifully pink wild salmon. It looks great, tastes wonderful, and is packed with good-for-you omega-3 fatty acids. Plus, wild salmon (ideally from Alaska) is better for the environment than farmed salmon. Round out the meal with a side of your favorite mix of seasonal vegetables (preferably from your local farmers' market) and—if you're craving yet more color—lemon wedges.

When it comes to steak, Americans are learning that less meat can be more: more eco-friendly, more healthful, and more delicious. Instead of that huge T-bone or porterhouse, try a smaller rib-eye steak—and make sure it's grass-fed. Grass-fed beef is lower in fat and calories than conventionally raised beef and contains omega-3 fatty acids and conjugated linoleic acids (CLAs), which may boost the immune system and help lower the risk of cancer and heart disease. Keep the goodness going by skipping that pat of blue-cheese butter and drizzling the meat with a simple vinaigrette.
Grass-fed beef is very lean and is best served rare or medium-rare.

If you have them, mason jars are a down-home way to serve the drinks.

Chile verde—slow-cooked pork in a tomatillo sauce—gets a speedy update.

Halloumi is a firm, mild Cypriot cheese. When grilled, it gets crisp outside, melty inside. Look for the cheese at supermarkets, specialty foods stores, natural foods stores, and igourmet.com.

Serve with hot chocolate.

These smoothies are light, delicious, and not too sweet. If you prefer a thicker smoothie, add 1/4 cup plain yogurt. Almond milk is a dairy-free product made from ground almonds; it's available at some supermarkets and at specialty foods stores and natural foods stores.

Chef Lynne Gigliotti adapted this Gourmet magazine recipe and added two ingredients often found in traditional versions: saffron for color and yogurt to make the tah-dig (which Gourmet defines as "the crunchy crust of rice on the bottom of the pot") extra crispy and flavorful. The tah-dig is the defining characteristic of Persian rice, a crisp, golden disk that is served atop the fragrant, steaming dish.

This recipe, from my old sous chef Mitch SuDock, makes the best fried chicken ever. We used to make brined pork at JUdson Grill, and he started using the brine to make fried chicken for our nightly staff meal. The benefit of brine is that the batter keeps the seasoning from penetrating the meat, but the brine works its way in. Keep a close eye on the thermometer when frying; try to maintain a temperature of 300°F, which will cook the chicken through without burning the exterior.

This is one of my favorite soups. It has to be served really cold so that you can appreciate the buttermilk and yogurt tang and the sharpness they add to the cucumbers. The Tabasco is optional, but I recommend it to give a little kick at the end; it won't register as spicy, but you'll miss it if it's not there.

Every spring when the first crates of fava beans are delivered to the kitchen at Piperade, I can almost hear the collective groan from my kitchen staff all the way from my home twelve miles away. I like favas and use them as often as I can when they are in season, but I have to admit they are labor-intensive, requiring both shelling and peeling. However, from my perspective—and judging from the number of orders we get from our guests—they are worth the work. At home, I hand them to my sons to shell while they watch a baseball game on TV, or I enlist guests before dinner. This recipe is simplicity itself and allows the sweet, nutty flavor of the favas to shine. Try to find small beans; older, larger favas are too starchy to use here.

Grits are often made with water, but the addition of whole milk—not to mention thick-cut bacon and fried eggs—turns a workhorse into a thoroughbred.

This handsome roast elicited oohs and aahs in the test kitchen when Ruggiero pulled it out of the oven, and the succulent meat disappeared in a flurry of forks. The rosemary, thyme, sage, and savory sprigs on which the pork loin roasts infuse the meat and mingle with its mustard and shallot cloak. The luscious sauce is argument enough for keeping a bottle of dry vermouth on hand.