Cocoa

This recipe came from Maya Eyler, a cook who worked for me at Daniel. I don’t remember the story behind it, but I think it was a family recipe—which makes sense. It’s an old-style cake, using mayonnaise to ensure moistness. I make it as a sheet cake and use it as a component in several desserts. Baked in a cake pan for a little longer and layered with ganache or frosting, it could become a birthday cake, though.

Because this pastry is good at maintaining its shape and withstanding humidity, it’s the dough I turn to for blind-baking. It’s ideal for tarts with custard or light pastry cream fillings—or even Chocolate Crème Chiboust (see page 263). Sometimes I roll this pastry out flat, bake it until crisp, and then process it to use as a crumble under ice cream.

I often find myself reflecting back on principal recipes and techniques when I’m changing the menu at Jean Georges, then reworking them with modern flavor combinations. The fresh jam in this recipe makes a traditional tart more seasonal. Thai basil has a distinct flavor, so in addition to striking a modern note, it holds up well against the more homey notes struck by the cherries.

I like making my own chocolate syrup because I can control the sweetness and the quality of the cocoa powder. Plus, it couldn’t be simpler.

Here’s the simple secret to winning a chocolate lover’s heart: we want chocolate, butter, and sugar . . . and make it fluffy, please.

This recipe works for chocolate tart crusts, chocolate sugar cookies, and as a cheesecake base. You can keep a batch in the freezer to be ready for any dessert challenge that arises. Although the method given below is safer in terms of overmixing, if you are in a rush, toss all the ingredients in a food processor and pulse a few times until you get a smooth dough.

The French named this dessert cream after a castle in the town of Chantilly, a culinary hot spot in the 1800s. If you love whipped cream and chocolate, you’ll appreciate this long-lasting, perfect marriage. This recipe makes enough icing for 2 generous coats on a cake and decorations.

This is my favorite fudge cake. It is light, but also buttery, chocolaty, soft, and moist. Its texture is strong enough to hold up to buttercream, which can drag a lesser cake down. This cake goes with each of the four icings presented in this chapter.

Blending Fair Trade coffee with Fair Trade cocoa allows us to support those who serve the world coffee and chocolate. It also helps us celebrate the classic European flavor combination of coffee and chocolate, mixed here as you might find them in an Italian café, with tangy mascarpone cheese and lemon. To make the cookie crumbs for the crust, see the recipe for Chocolate Sugar Dough (page 132) or buy plain cookies (like Pepperidge Farm Chocolate Chessman). Toss about twenty cookies of either type in the blender, pulse two or three times, and you will have dark chocolate cookie crumbs. You’ll need a cheesecake or springform pan, and most grocery store versions of this work fine. When the cake is baked and chilled, release the latch, slice, and serve. Be sure to clean your knife with a warm wet towel for each slice.

Like chocolate, the chile peppers that give chili its name and flavor come from Mexico. By assembling the many ingredients below and allowing them to cook together over low heat, you can easily imagine earlier versions of this Mexican stew (despite a few modern concessions). The cocoa powder adds depth and earthiness to the spicy indigenous flavors. This is a big batch and serves 15 people. You can also freeze it.

Authentic, fiery mole sauces from the southern region of Mexico take days to prepare. This is a relatively quick version of the chunky, spicy, and chocolatey, mole negro or “black sauce.” To experience the full flavors of peppers, native spices, and fresh chocolate, book a culinary vacation to Oaxaca, Mexico, the Land of Seven Moles, where you can explore a district known as the Trail of Chocolate. In the meantime, get fresh ingredients from your local farmers’ market. You can substitute jalepeños for the poblano chiles, but the dark dried ancho and mulato chiles are important to bring the sauce to its characteristic deep chocolate brown. This will make a large batch of sauce designed to thin and use for a meal, then freeze and thaw as needed.

You’ll get some scratchy texture from this exfoliating salt scrub, which should be followed by a warm rinse for a lingering, silky texture on the skin. You’ll find the oils for this recipe in health food stores. The treatment works best at the end of a hot bath. For a less expensive version, use either almond or jojoba oil (instead of both).

Some days, the fats and sugars of life must be avoided, but you can still squeeze in a little chocolate. I usually prefer natural ingredients like whole milk and real sugar, but on diet day, everything must be skinny, and I use sugar substitutes. Swirl a green apple slice through this dip in the afternoon, make a cup of green tea, soak up all your antioxidants, and you’ll forget that you’re even on a diet.

These easy, no-bake candies are good for you if you eat only two or three, which is dangerously difficult to do. You’ll find a balance between the natural sweetness of dates and honey and the bitterness of rich cocoa.

You’ll get a crunchy cocoa kick and a buttery, sweet finish from these iced chocolate sugar cookies. They’re small enough that if you eat one or two, you’ll have satisfaction, not guilt. Make a full batch of dough and freeze half for later use.

No apologies here. These are dense and decadent. You’ll want to use a strong dark chocolate—something that stands up to the richness of great butter, fresh eggs, and a lot of sugar.

This rich cocoa warms the heart and soul like no other. After you’ve served the cocoa, the leftover amount makes a good base for chilly chocolate milk the next day. Store it in the refrigerator and just splash in cold, fresh milk to lighten it up.