Chicken

I came across this amusing recipe in an old South African cookbook and could not resist the name. Not only are two kinds of white wine plus some brandy called for, but the drier wine that is used for a marinade is thrown away, testimony to the abundance of wine in the fertile Cape province. The chicken roasts surprisingly fast in less than an hour, turning to an even, glowing brown — indeed, my only caution is to avoid letting it color too much. The pearl barley, prune, and apricot pilaf is an appetizing brown, too, studded with the rich colors of the fruit. If you want to work ahead, the pilaf keeps well for several days in the refrigerator, but the chicken is best freshly roasted just before it is served. Wine for Cooking South Africa's recent political renaissance has prompted the reappearance of its wines in American markets at very attractive prices. For the marinade, any dry white will do but, for authenticity's sake, it would be fun to start with a South African wine, perhaps a Cape riesling. For the sauce, a luscious sweet white is needed and a muscat from the Constantia or Robertson district would be ideal. Wine to Drink Sticking to the South African theme at the table, I would suggest a sauvignon blanc or a chardonnay from Stellenbosch, one with sufficient fruit to match the muscat in the sauce and the prunes and apricots in the pearl barley.

Cooking chicken as described in the recipe below results in really crisp, almost transparent skin (like that on Peking duck) and moist flesh.

This is the basic method for preparing a chicken sauté to which you can add flavoring variations. You may dredge the chicken with flour if you wish. This gives a browner color but unflavored chicken is more delicate.

You can make a foil packet for the wood chips (see instructions), or buy a disposable aluminum pan that fits your grill.

Begin making these a day ahead.

Some advance preparation is required for these wings: The yogurt needs to drain for 2 hours and the wings need to marinate for at least 2 hours.

A puree of spinach and basil lends color and flavor to this Thai-style main dish.

A tangy tomato-herb sauce and Parmesan accent chicken that's cooked in a flash.

You can find the black bean sauce in the oriental section of your supermarket.

Serve this delicious curried chicken dish with steamed basmati rice or Indian flatbreads.

More supermarkets are carrying fresh rabbit, as people rediscover its delicate flavor. Braising helps to keep it moist and tender. If you have trouble finding rabbit, however, you can substitute bone-in chicken, skin removed.

I like chicken to remain moist, but it must be cooked through; so, if necessary, cook longer than recommended here. If cutting the meat in thirds is too large to handle, cut into four pieces.

Sweet, sour, and meaty, this is summer food to eat with your hands.