Cannellini Bean

The following antipasto is based on an octopus and cannellini salad served at La Baraonda in Florence.

Begin with chicken soup enriched with tiny pasta and fresh spinach leaves. Thick slices of country bread are perfect with the tuna salad, and tiramisù is the dessert of choice.

Brandade, a specialty of Languedoc and Provence, inspired the following recipe. Also called brandade de morue ("ragout of cod"), it is classically a purée of salt cod, olive oil, and milk, often thickened with bread or potato. Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

Active time: 20 min Start to finish: 30 min

This superb starter has no cream and just one tablespoon of oil.

Duck, turkey or dark chicken meat can substitute for the goose with equally delicious results. Fine accompaniments are a green salad with Roquefort vinaigrette and hot crusty bread. For a quick and sophisticated dessert, add a bit of red wine and ground cinnamon to canned pears with their syrup.

This low-fat rendition of the classic dish comes from Gil Martínez Soto of Restaurante Virrey de Palafox in El Burgo de Osma, Spain.

Here's a hearty main-course soup perfect for a simple winter dinner. The chopped escarole fills a large bowl but wilts considerably when cooked.

A robust mix of white beans and macaroni in a light tomato sauce, ready to serve in under 30 minutes.

The oversize croutons add a nice crunch to this warming dish, which is a cross between a soup and a stew. Serve with: Romaine salad with sliced oranges, black olives, and balsamic vinaigrette.

Garbure Don't be misled by the plain-looking appearance of this classic Basque soup; it is thoroughly satisfying and delicious. Active time: 30 min Start to finish: 10 1/2 hr (includes soaking beans)

Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

Team these with grilled or broiled chicken, or add a green salad and some crusty whole wheat bread for a simple supper.