French

Active time: 15 min Start to finish: 25 min

Adapted from L'Ardoise Serve this play on the classic escargots à la bourguignonne with lots of crusty bread to mop up the flavorful butter. The snails come in 7-ounce cans, so you'll have leftovers. You might want to consider making escargots à la Bourguignonne with the leftover snails.

Zucchini gives a summery twist to the classic leek-and-potato soup; this new take on an old favorite is served at Quisiana.

Boeuf bourguignon may be made 1 day ahead. Cool, uncovered, then chill, covered (it tastes even better made ahead because it gives the flavors time to develop). If making ahead, it's easier to remove fat from surface after chilling.

(OMELETTE AUX ASPERGES)

This is a simple recipe for a wonderful bûche de Noël. The cake is a bit heartier than the typical genoise, which suits my taste, and the hint of cinnamon gives it an aromatic layer of flavor. You may change and adjust flavorings, drizzle the cake with a rum or a sugar syrup flavored with vanilla after it's cooled, or do any number of things to make it your own.

This version of a popular Provençal treat has a tender texture. The fried cookies are perfect with a glass of milk (kid style) or with an after-dinner drink (for grown-ups).

This must be made in a deep, oven-proof earthenware (lead-free) bowl to have its special rich taste!

We found that using a blender to begin the emulsion process for aïoli is much faster than pounding by hand from start to finish, which is the traditional method. Once using the mortar, resist the impulse to add the oil quickly — it will cause the mixture to separate. All the slow stirring requires a strong arm, so you may want to recruit a friend to help (especially because you need to make the aïoli in two batches). Very fresh garlic is crucial to this recipe. Bulbs should have smooth, tight skin and be firm and heavy for their size, with no green shoots.

Crisp anise cookies are layered with raspberries and honey-flavored cream. There are enough cookies to make four desserts, with extras for nibbling.

"I've been telling everyone about the absolutely incredible birthday meal I had at Park Avenue Café here in New York City," writes Sherri Steinfeld Maxman of New York City. "The knee-weakening menu included Burke's famous "pastrami" salmon; a morel flan served with eggshells nestled in eggcups; basil-rubbed rack of lamb with oven-dried tomato ravioli; Camembert fondue with truffle essence; and a dazzling array of desserts." Executive chef David Burke uses the term fondue freely, in this case applying it to a truffle-flavored cream sauce served with a slice of Camembert. He likes to use Hudson Valley Camembert, a blend of sheep's and cow's milk. It is available by mail order from the cheesemaker, Old Chatham Sheepherding Company in Old Chatham, New York , tel. (888)743-3760.

Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

This sauce evokes Provence at its productive best, in summer, when farms and family gardens are at their peak production, yielding vegetables with an incomparable depth of flavor. Note: be sure all of your ingredients, and the bowl or mortar you are working with, are at room temperature. Differing temperatures can cause the aïoli to separate. When making aïoli - or any mayonnaise-like sauce - think slow, slow, slow. There is a simple remedy for separated aïoli. Put an egg yolk in another bowl, and slowly whisk the separated aïoli into it.