French

This pull-out-all-the-stops cake for special occasions may be prepared in steps in advance and glazes on the day it is to be served.

A simple and satisfying version of a typically time-consuming restaurant classic.

Although the morels add a woodsy intensity to the flavor of the consommé, they are not essential. You can substitute other dried exotic mushrooms or eliminate them altogether and simply float a thin slice of fresh white mushroom on the soup right before covering the bowl with the pastry.

Apples are one of the culinary symbols of Normandy, and Camembert cheese is one of its great man-made products. There is a season for Camembert, too: In September and October, it is at its buttery, flavorful peak. Present this salad French style, after the main course. For dessert, pick up some pastries from the bakery.

Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

(TIAN DE POIVRONS ET D'AUBERGINES AUX ANCHOIS) This can be served hot or at room temperature, making it a good partner for roasted meats and fish or sandwiches. If you're not an anchovy fan, leave them out—the tian will still be great.

Active time: 10 min Start to finish: 1 hr (includes cooling)

PROVENCE This dish is typically made with pitted, brine-cured black olives (Kalamata or Niçois work well), but if olives cassées — the green, fennel-brined olives of Provence — can be found, try them here in equal quantity after draining them. Accompany the steaks with mushrooms sautéed with garlic and herbs. What to drink: A Rhône red, such as a Gigondas, or Syrah.

Don't be nervous about making these rich and spicy soufflés — they're durable enough to be reheated. And it's normal for the puffy tops to fall when you remove the soufflés from the oven. Active time: 20 min Start to finish: 1 hr

BURGUNDY Known in France as Côtes de Porc Vigneronnes (Grape Growers' Pork Chops), this provincial dish is typical of the simple yet substantial fare served after a hard day of harvesting grapes. Serve with wilted spinach in cream. What to drink: Red Burgundy or a Burgundian Pinot Noir.

Try a fruity, spicy red wine, such as a California Zinfandel, with this main course.

California orange groves inspired this version of the cake shaped like a Yule log.

Filet de Boeuf à la Bordelaise Active time: 3 hr Start to finish: 25 hr (includes making stock and soaking marrow)

Poires au Four avec Sabayon de Sauternes Active time: 20 min Start to finish: 1 hr

Gâteau Breton aux Noix This is my variation on a traditional butter cake from Brittany. Its dense, rich, and very buttery flavor is amplified by the lightly toasted walnuts, giving it a whole other dimension. In Brittany this cake is served for an afternoon snack, with coffee, or after a meal. I sometimes put it on the breakfast table as well.