French

At New York's Nosmo King (the name is a clever twist on "no smoking"), Alan Harding does a terrific job of cooking upscale food with almost entirely organic ingredients.

This dessert, prominent in the window of virtually every Paris pastry shop, is a true classic. The puff pastry rounds are usually filled with an almond mixture, but my version features hazelnuts and chocolate. Purchased pastry makes it approachable for the modern cook. Since it reheats nicely, the Pithiviers can be made ahead.

A nice hors d'oeuvre teaming fresh vegetables with a simplified version of rouille, the spicy red pepper and garlic sauce that typically accompanies French fish soups.

Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

Fresh or frozen cherries can be used in this classic French dessert, which combines characteristics of pudding and custard and, in this case, has a nice almond flavor.

Gnocchi aux Blettes According to some sources, gnocchi are a Niçois invention, and the use of Swiss chard in the dough is a traditional addition. In fact, Swiss chard is ubiquitous in Provençal cooking. This recipe is from L'Escalinada, where the gnocchi are served with a fresh tomato-herb sauce. Make your own sauce, or look for a good-quality one at the market.

This version of clafouti is like a custard.

A rustic tart with a delicious hazelnut crust, sweet filling and buttery topping.

Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

The port cities of Normandy-Caen among them-offer almost endless choices for fall menu planning. For this satisfying stew, the natural bounty of Normandy's waters, the rich cream of its pasturelands and its distinctive apple-based brandy called Calvados are combined with savory root vegetables from the local harvest. Start out with your favorite pâté and some cornichons, and serve a crusty baguette with the stew. Pour a white Burgundy or hard cider.

Transform flounder fillets into an elegant dinner with this classic French technique.

A well-sharpened French mandoline with a fluted blade is the secret to these paper-thin potato wafers with a waffle design. Active time: 55 min Start to finish: 1 1/4 hr

Called "French pasta" at the restaurant, this Provençal-style special (using no butter and a minimum of oil) is typical of Méteigner's light French fare.