European

In the late nineteenth century, the city of Czernowitz, known as the Vienna of Eastern Europe, was famous throughout Austria-Hungary for its tolerance, civic beauty, culture, and learning. Frequently renationalized over the last millennium, Czernowitz has passed through Romanian, Ottoman, and Austrian control and is now a Ukrainian city called Chernivtsi. At its cultural peak at the turn of the twentieth century, it was populated and governed by Jews from Poland, Russia, Austria, and Romania — it even hosted the first-ever Yiddish-language conference in 1908. Of course, World War II destroyed this idyll, and most of the city's Jews were deported to Auschwitz. This recipe for a classic European challah (pronounced "chern-o-vitzer") comes from the late Lotte Langmann. It is not terribly sweet or eggy, but it is generously enriched with oil. The Austrians traditionally use a four-stranded braid, but this dough holds its shape so beautifully during baking that it is a great choice for showing off any fancy shape. This has become one of my favorite challah recipes.

This summer, Marino grew about 85 tomato varieties in his garden; he uses his harvest in this caprese. Burrata cheese, a fresh mozzarella filled with cream and curds, is available at some supermarkets, Italian markets, and cheese stores. Fresh whole-milk mozzarella can be substituted.

Here's Hill's take on a tart he had at Chez Panisse in Berkeley.

Budino is Italian for "pudding."

A great substitute for the truffle butter is an equal amount of plain butter seasoned with a drizzle of truffle oil. Parmesan cheese rinds are available at cheese counters and cheese shops.

This classic Italian dish is said to have been created in the 1800s after the opening night of Bellini's opera Norma.

Truffles add luxurious appeal, but the ravioli are fantastic without them.

At the restaurant, this dish is drizzled with tomato sauce, then garnished with salami and sautéed zucchini.

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Soft 00 flour (available at Italian markets) produces a more tender pasta, but all purpose flour works well, too.

Kuchen, a German yeast cake, acts as a golden pillow for ripe pears and a cinnamon, sugar, and hazelnut topping.

Think of that old-fashioned dish of grapes baked in sour cream and brown sugar. Now imagine it as something light and elegant, and you'll understand this dish.

Food editor Gina Marie Miraglia Eriquez's southern Italian grandmother makes this dish every September. The eggplants get a workout, but the result is worth the effort.