East Asian

This soup, known as congee or jook, is found in one form or another in many Asian countries and is eaten at all times of day. At breakfast plain congee is the norm, served with a variety of strongly flavored accompaniments — such as pickled turnips, salted fish, and peanuts — to awaken the palate. We love the flavor and color the pumpkin gives the soup. Those who like oatmeal for breakfast might enjoy this with just a touch of sugar; or leave it plain and top it with the recommended accompaniments.

This is a poetic version of the traditional Chinese almond milk gelatin dessert. Whipping the milk gives the top layer of this dessert the appearance of snow. Fat-free (skim) milk will create the most foam.

This recipe can be prepared in 45 minutes or less. A popular Japanese sauce perks up the grilled shrimp. For side dishes, garnish purchased sesame noodle salad with chopped green onions and peanuts, and put out a plate of carrot and celery sticks. As long as the coals are hot, grill slices of fresh pineapple, then top them with vanilla ice cream and shredded coconut.

This is an adaptation of the Cantonese classic. In China fried rice is seasoned with salt rather than soy sauce (which darkens the grains). However, a bit of soy sauce for extra flavor is nice.

The flavorful broth that results from cooking the pork is known in Chinese cuisine as a master sauce — save any that's left over in the freezer and use it for braising other meats, such as duck or chicken. Allowing the pork to cool overnight in the broth ensures its succulence — and because it's made ahead, this dish is ideal for entertaining. Active time: 40 min Start to finish: 14 1/2 hr (includes chilling)

Soybeans in the Pod Sweet, delicious young soybeans, which appear fresh in markets in Japan throughout the summer (they are available frozen in the U.S.), make great hors d'oeuvres. They are packed with protein and fun to eat-the slightly fuzzy green pods tickle your lips as you gently suck the beans into your mouth. Provide bowls for the empty pods. This recipe can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

At Aqua, the sea bass is presented with shrimp tortellini in lobster consommé.

Nearly everyone has tasted a Spring Roll, as they are served in dim sum houses and Chinese restaurants all over America: But a homemade Spring Roll is a rare treat. The roll should have a crackling crisp skin with a filling of fine shreds of mushroom, barbecued pork, celery, cabbage, and just a touch of bean sprouts. Most restaurant spring rolls are full of bamboo shoots, celery, and bean sprouts; have a chewy or soggy wrapper; and are seldom fried in fresh oil. The wrapping dough is available in most Chinese markets, sold as spring roll wrappers, and should be as thin as possible. There are about ten wrappers per package, although most packages do not indicated how many they contain. Keep the dough covered with a slightly damp cloth as you work with it, to prevent it from drying out.

Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

For an especially quick and easy meal, buy prepared Chinese barbecued pork loin (3/4 pound will be plenty). This pink-tinged meat is available at many Asian supermarkets—or you may even be able to purchase it from your neighborhood Chinese restaurant.

Serve the salmon with steamed rice tossed with shelled edamame (fresh green soybeans). Market tip: Choose wild Alaskan salmon, which is abundant and well regulated. Farmed salmon is controversial; salmon farms pollute wild salmon habitats and spread disease to wild salmon stocks.

The salsa has a nice balance of sweet and spicy flvaors and is a perfect compliment to purchased frozen spring rolls or egg rolls.

Active time: 30 min Start to finish: 1 1/2 hr

Beefy shiitake mushrooms stand in for the standard ground pork in this version of ma po tofu. What to drink: The bit of heat here calls for a spicy white wine with ripe fruit and crisp acidity, such as a Riesling from Alsace or Germany's Rheingau.